Artificial grass installation is more than laying turf on dirt. The foundation, drainage, infill and finishing details determine whether your yard will look good, drain properly, stay cool underfoot, control pet odor and last for years without lifting seams or developing low spots. This guide walks you through what happens beneath and within the turf, what to expect during base preparation, and what to ask for in writing so you know exactly what you are getting.
Whether you are converting a dead St. Augustine lawn, building a dog run that will not turn to mud, or preparing a patio surround for a pool, the same principles apply across Irving's clay soils and intense summer heat. A properly installed system starts with honest site assessment, correct excavation and compaction, the right infill for your use, and finishing work that shows craftsmanship. This guide is written for homeowners in Irving and the surrounding areas who want to understand the work before it begins.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it weighs the turf down so it does not shift, props the synthetic fibres upright so they look and feel natural, protects the backing from UV exposure, and helps water drain through the system. The choice of infill depends on the turf's intended use and your priorities for odor control, temperature and durability.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is angular, compacts firmly, and provides solid ballast and fibre support. Coated sand rounds the grain surface, making it gentler underfoot and easier to rake or brush. Coated sand is often colored to match the turf and can reduce heat slightly. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odor-causing compounds, making it popular for pet areas and dog runs where urine would otherwise pool. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills such as Envirofill combine mineral bases with surface treatments designed to inhibit odor bacteria and reflect heat. These products cost more but are worth considering in high-traffic pet areas or where summer surface temperature matters. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is standard for athletic fields and sports courts where impact absorption is the priority; it is rarely used in residential yards because it does not address residential concerns and carries its own maintenance trade-offs.
The right infill choice balances your budget, the turf product's design, and what the yard will endure. Ask your installer which infill they recommend for your specific use and why.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot, and it is one of the most common places where cheap installations cut corners. Too little infill means the turf fibres stand poorly, the backing gets exposed to sun and degrades faster, the turf shifts underfoot, and drainage performance suffers. Too much infill is wasteful and can slow drainage, but the real risk in Irving's climate and clay soils is under-filling.
Typical residential turf uses between 12 and 18 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the pile height, fibre density and backing type of the product chosen. Pet turf and play areas often run toward the higher end. Putting greens and sports surfaces have their own specifications. The exact figure should come from the turf manufacturer's data sheet and should be written into your installation contract. Many homeowners discover too late that their installer applied half the recommended amount, which shows up as poor appearance, fast wear and drainage problems within the first season.
Before you commit, ask your installer to provide the infill amount in writing as part of the specification. This is not a detail to leave to chance or to assume will be correct.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
What lies beneath artificial grass is as important as the turf itself. The process begins with removal of the existing lawn, sod or old turf, including roots and debris that would otherwise trap moisture and cause odor. Once the site is cleared, the installer excavates to the appropriate depth, typically 4 to 5 inches below the finished grade, to make room for the base material and drainage layer.
After excavation, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid in areas where weeds might push through from below, particularly on residential lots with mature oak trees where shade and organic matter create conditions for weed growth. Over the weed barrier goes a free-draining base of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or recycled asphalt, compacted in thin lifts with a plate compactor until it is firm and stable. This base is graded with a slight fall away from the house and pool to direct water away. Once the base is set, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed for pet areas, play zones or hard surfaces like patios and balconies. This underlay cushions the turf, improves drainage and helps with odor control. Finally, the turf is laid over the pad or directly over the compacted base, seamed, nailed and finished.
On concrete, balconies or other hard surfaces, never glue turf flat to the slab. Instead, lay a draining underlay, ensure edge drainage with a perimeter channel, and allow water to move freely underneath. Turf trapped against concrete without drainage becomes a reservoir for water, odor and algae.
Base Prep on Irving Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Irving's dominant soil is heavy black clay, which holds water and compacts poorly when wet. This is the core challenge in base preparation. Clay does not drain naturally, so an artificial grass installation must work around it by excavating below the clay, importing a free-draining base material, and compacting it firmly to create a stable platform that sheds water away from the house and yard.
The excavation depth typically runs 3 to 5 inches, depending on the site's existing grade and drainage needs. The installer removes clay, roots and debris, then grades the bottom of the excavation with a fall of at least 1 to 2 percent away from the house and pool. Over this graded clay base goes 3 to 4 inches of compacted base rock (decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or recycled asphalt). This material is spread in 1 to 2 inch lifts and compacted with a plate compactor after each lift. Proper compaction is essential: an uncompacted base settles, creating low spots where water pools, causing drainage failure, odor and turf distortion. You will see the difference between a properly compacted yard and a loose one within weeks of installation.
If your yard has a genuine water problem (persistent standing water, a high water table, or poor drainage to the street), the base preparation alone may not solve it. In those cases, the real issue is site drainage, which may require regrading, a French drain or other solutions beyond the scope of turf installation. An honest installer will identify this upfront and either decline the job or recommend that drainage be addressed first.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass drainage is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF) and depends on both the turf backing and the base underneath. The turf itself has either a perforated backing, which has small drainage holes punched through, or a fully permeable backing, which allows water to flow through the entire backing material. Fully permeable backings drain faster and are preferred for pet areas, play zones and climates with heavy rain. Perforated backings are adequate for most residential yards but are less forgiving if the base below does not drain well.
A turf's drainage rate is stated in its technical data sheet. Typical residential turf drains at 15 to 30 GPH/SF or higher, meaning water moves through quickly under normal conditions. However, drainage performance is only as good as the weakest link. A fast-draining turf installed on a poorly compacted or impermeable base will fail, causing water to pool on the surface, creating odor problems and damage to the backing. In Irving's heavy clay, this is why base preparation and compaction are non-negotiable.
For pet areas and dog runs, choose a fully permeable backing and consider a draining underlay or pad designed for odor control. For patios, balconies and hard surfaces, a draining underlay is essential to keep water from pooling against the concrete or deck. Ask your installer for the drainage rate in writing and confirm that the base material and compaction will support it. If water sits on top of the turf after rain, something in the system is failing.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a quick patch job. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet, and they are the most visible and vulnerable part of the finished yard. A proper seam is created by aligning the grain of the turf pieces so the fibres run in the same direction, overlapping the edges slightly, applying a flexible seam adhesive and seam tape, pressing them together firmly, and allowing the adhesive to cure. A visible seam or one that is peeling up within months means the work was rushed or the adhesive was not applied correctly.
Around the perimeter, the turf is secured with galvanized nails or staples spaced 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the product and conditions. The edges are finished with bender board (a flexible metal or plastic edging), a secured perimeter stake, or a tight cut to pavers or hardscape. Clean edges matter: a sloppy perimeter allows the turf to shift, collects debris and looks unfinished. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to the paver or cool deck so water drains away and the edge does not fray.
After installation, the entire surface is power broomed (swept with a stiff mechanical brush) to stand the fibres upright, spread the infill evenly, and give the turf its final appearance. This step is often skipped by installers working quickly, and it shows: the turf looks flat, the infill is clumped, and the surface does not feel right underfoot. A well-finished yard is power broomed and ready to use immediately.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before installation begins, you should receive a written specification that details exactly what will be installed, how it will be prepared and what you will get. This spec is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. It should include the following items: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in GPH/SF, the infill type and quantity in pounds per square foot, the base depth and material (decomposed granite, crushed limestone, recycled asphalt), the compaction method and whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and edging type, cleanup and haul-off of old turf and debris, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation labor).
This spec ties the installer to the work and gives you a clear picture of what you are paying for. It also allows you to compare quotes fairly: if one installer quotes a lower price, you can see whether they are using a lower-grade turf, less infill, a thinner base or cheaper materials. A full spec takes time to prepare because it requires an on-site measurement and assessment. If an installer gives you a price over the phone or quotes a per-square-foot rate without seeing the yard, that is a red flag.
Irving Turf Installation provides a free estimate with an on-site measurement and written specification before any work begins. See the pricing page for ranges and details on how we structure our quotes. The spec is your roadmap; insist on it in writing.